Apple Aperture 2: A workflow guide for digital photographers
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Many, if not most, of these techniques are digital carryovers from the good old days of film photography—cropping, exposure, and even sharpening, for examples. One basic concept from those days is the negative, and many photo editing apps maintain this concept, by employing a "nondestructive" editing process. All this means is that your original photo file or a copy of it remains untouched no matter how many edits you make.
Some apps simply make copies, while more sophisticated ones such as the workflow apps mentioned above, don't touch the original, but instead maintain a database of your changes, which are used for display and exporting to shareable file types. Another note about using digital negatives: If at all possible, say you're shooting with a DSLR or higher-end mirrorless camera, it will definitely be to your advantage to shoot and import raw camera files, treating these as the negatives.
Unfortunately, there isn't just one raw file type, but rather each camera maker has its own standard. For example, Canon cameras produce. And even within these filenames, each camera model's raw files will have unique characteristics, so you have to make sure your software supports raw files from your particular model.
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A raw file is considerably larger in size than the typical JPG format because it contains all of the information off your camera's light sensor. Using raw camera files means that at the editing stage, you have a lot more potential for improvement, since the standard JPG, a compressed format, throws out data that may represent the very dark or very light parts of an image.
I've shot light stucco walls that, in the JPG version of the photo I saw nothing but white, but when tweaking the same shot's raw file, was able to bring out cracks and texture in the wall that had completely been lost in the JPG, for a far more convincing image. Of course, if you're not hardcore about getting the absolute optimal image, but simply want your photos looking as good as possible, there's still plenty you can do without working with raw files.
If your camera doesn't let you get at the raw files, it's still a good idea to shoot at its top resolution and quality level. We'll start with the absolute basics, and then proceed to some more advanced adjustments. Michael Muchmore is PC Magazine's lead analyst for software and web applications. I know that as a dedicated Mac user, Aperture is my best bet, especially on the organization end. The problem is on the editing side: I have been using Lightroom at work for years and have grown fairly proficient at it not to mention that features like noise canceling and lens correction are awesome.
So much so that every time I try Aperture, I quickly get confused as to what does what. Sort of like one of those Mac "switcher" guides for users coming from Windows. Honestly, I'd pay for that. I have searched high and low, and am really surprised that no one has written about this. Surely I'm not the only one Given your experience, it seems like you're uniquely qualified to help! Related Tweets. Follow me on Twitter. Serial photography. Terra Firma. Iceland, remixed.
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